Stories of the Climb

My “survival of the stupidest” event of climbing 30 pitches in a day at Smith Rock was accomplished. All pitches were 5.9 or harder except for the first pitch of the day (which was done by headlamp at 6:00 am – 5.8 “Five Gallon Bucket”).

The day got off to an inauspicious start when I was going from where I was camping to the crag. Being unfamiliar with my route, I carefully crawled up and over some small steps that crossed a fence. I had a headlamp but figured I could see well enough without it. I guess I couldn’t, for the boards, which I thought were simply lying in a group for some odd reason, were really over a small irrigation ditch. Stepping off the boards on a direct line to my destination resulted in a foot and leg plunging into the cold water.

Throughout the day, I had three different partners. The pitches were either led by my partner or me. That meant that some of the pitches I did were tope-roped ascents. The 6th pitch of the day could have been tragic. Ryan, my first partner of the day was leading a new climb. He commented on the fact that a block was loose after pulling up on it. He moved past it and started to weight it with his foot when it blew off. By the time I heard his scream and caught site of the backpack sized block, it was only 30 feet above. Jumping to one side, I was able to get out of the way in time. It landed two feet from where I was belaying.

My second partner, Adam, joined me about 10:30 am and we headed for the shade. The fourteenth pitch of the day was the hardest climb attempted. “Blacken” is this super cool 5.11d. I had done the bottom crux but the upper crux spanked me. This was one of two pitches I weighted the rope on.

The day ended with the last two pitches being climbed by headlamp (finished at 7:45 PM). Kristin was my final partner of the day. The wind was blowing hard and it was getting cold. But she was willing to persevere so I could honestly (at least in my way of counting) claim to have climbed 30 pitches. To make up for the two pitches I hung on, I decided to pay penance by twice top-roping a 5.9 climb that I had lead for my last pitch. Interestingly enough, the last climb is called “Phone Call From Satan” – not sure I heard the ring.

My climbing was fueled by Cliff Bars, beef jerky and Crystal Light Energy packets (120 mg caffeine per quart of water). Although I climbed a lot (see grade list below), I feel I still had more in me. I had lost most of my pulling strength so more climbing would have been reduced to climbing 5.10a and below.

Also, there were several friends who hung around – helping out and giving encouragement. I would like to thank them and my partners for making this a special day. Also, I would like to thank all who sponsored me too – although I raised only half my goal, the funds will be used to buy medicine for three kids with aids in Africa for one year (BTW – it not too late to contribute at http://www.firstgiving.com/calvinclimber).

Blessings,
Calvin

Climbing List

5.8 – 1 climb

5.9 – 9 climbs

5.10a - 9 climbs

5.10b – 8 climbs

5.10c – 2 climbs

5.10d – 1 climb

5.11a – 1 climb

5.11d – 1 climb